Eye Cosmetics And Their Use
How Safe Are Eye-Cosmetics?
Most instances of infection and injury to the eyes are a result of careless application and use of cosmetics rather than due to any of the ingredients.So it is important to follow simple ru;es of cleanliness and hygiene when using eye-cosmetics: wash your hands before touching your eyes; never borrow or lend any item of eye makeup; never use saliva or dirty water to moisten eye-makeup.
Allergic reactions to eye makeup are however, not uncommon: the solution to this problem is to stop using the eye cosmetic which has caused the reaction.But, remember, that reactions around the eyes are not always due to eye cosmetics, but maybe due to the nail varnish or the hair dye you have used.
Eye Makeup-Choosing For Yourself:
A.Eye Shadows:
The eye shadow you choose should flatter and enhance your eye colour and the shape of your eyes, as well as your whole appearance.The skin colour, the eye colour, and your life style need to be considered when choosing and using eye shadow.Always harmonise the colour of the eyeshadow with that of your skin and your eyes.Whatever the colour, it should be blended in well, so that there are no harsh lines.Aim for the natural look.
Apart from colour, there is a choice of forms of the eyeshadows.
a.Pressed Powders: These are still the most popular form of shadows, because they are easy to apply and control.These are available in pearly and matt textures.The effect is not long lasting, but if you apply them with a wet brush, you can get a deeper effect and increase the staying qualities of the colour.
b.Cream Shadows: These are oil or wax based and are best suited for dry crepey lids and should be avoided on greasy lids.
c.Sticks: These are firmer forms of cream shadow and look quite like lipsticks.
d.Pencils: Pencils have, however, almost totally replaced sticks and crayons.They have a high colour and filling ability.
e.Gels: These are suited for greasy skins.These give a long lasting, subtle and translucent effect.
f.Liquid Shadows: These also have a long lasting effect, but are difficult to apply because it is difficult to get an even flow of colour with them.
How To Apply Makeup
E.Eye Makeup:
Almond shaped eyes are considered to be the ideal.So when making up eyes, one tries with the help of light and dark eye makeup to make the necessary changes to give the eyes an almond appearance.
1.Eyeshadow: Application Technique:
The following steps are followed in the application of eyeshadow shades.
i.Using a fine, blunt-ended brush, gently apply the base colour to the entire lid from the inside to the outside corner and from the base of the lashes to the eyelid crease.
ii.If the eyes need extra definition, a deeper shade is blended into the crease line.This gives depth to the eyes.
iii.The brow bone is highlighted with a light shade.This gives the eyes a wide, open look.The colour is applied to the most prominent area and blended up towards the brow and down to where the contour curves down, toward the eyelid creases.
Before using them on the lids, always test the colours on the back of the hand to test the intensity.You can use even 3-4 colours, provided they are blended well.Remember pale tones emphasize, while deep sooty shades define.
2.Eye Liners: 
Application Technique For The Liquid EyeLiner:
Test, on the back of your hand, the amount of pressure you should apply.Unless you are a real artist, it is best to steady your elbow on a flat surface.Work from the inside of the eye to the outside corner and keep the line light and even.If you stop at the corner of the eyes, the effect will be round and wide-eyed;if you continue the line and sweep it up and out, you would get a more exotic look.Finally smudge the edges with a cotton bud to soften them.
Application Technique For The Pencil Eyeliner:
Pencils can be used in the same manner to define or extend the shape of the eyes, but they give a softer, more natural line.Keep them sharpened and ready for use, as blunted or broken points can spoil the whole effect.
3.Mascara:
How To Apply Mascara?
For best results, first look down and brush the top lashes from the roots downwards, then look up and brush the top lashes upwards.Then still looking up, brush colour on the lower lashes.Wait for a minute for them to dry, and similarly apply a second coat.Finally brush with a clean dry brush, to separate the lashes.
To Remove Mascara:
While removing the mascara avoid the colour from going onto the delicate area below the bottom lashes and close your eyes.Roll a cotton bud dipped in a cosmetic cleanser over the lashes, taking the mascara down onto the tissue.Repeat till all the mascara is gone.
4.Correction Of Eyes Using Makeup:
You can improve your eye shape by experimenting with colour and texture.Identify the shape of your eyes and follow the tips given:
i.For Small Eyes:Pluck the eyebrows fine to give maximum eye area.Use a little shadow under the lower lashes as well as on the top of the lid.Blend the shadow on the upper lid from the centre outwards, curving it upwards towards the brow in the shape of a wing.Line both the lids, extending the meeting line fairly out, to increase the length of the eyes.Mascara both the upper and lower lashes, using two coats on the outer lashes only.
ii.For Wide-Set Eyes:Pencil the eyebrows close to each other.Add a little shadow onto the bridge of the nose or blend your shadow close to the corner of the nose and stop at the centre of the upper lid.To make the eyes appear a little closer, start outlining the upper lid from the inner corner of the eye, bringing it near the nose ridge, leaving just the width of one eye in between the two eyes.Continue the line towards the outer corner but not quite extending up to it.
iii.For Close-Set Eyes: Shape the eyebrows so that they don t have the close-together appearance.Use the eyeshadow on the upper outer half of the lid extending above the eye and under the brow.To offset the closeness of the eyes, start drawing the eye line on the upper lid away from the inner corner.Draw it up and out.Similarly, the lower line should not begin from the inner corner.
iv.For Deep-Set Eyes:Use a dark eyeshadow under the eyebrow, but not on the lid, where if you want to, you can use a lighter eyeshadow.Line only the lower lid and extend the line fairly out and up.
v.For Round Eyes:Make sure the shape of your eyebrows is angular.Blend your shadow from the centre of the lid and deepen it at the outer edge of the eye, extending it a little beyond the outer corner of the eye.Line the upper lids, starting from the inner corner and extend it out and up so as to suggest length.
How To Apply Makeup
F.Lip Makeup:
Lipstick provides the final touch to your makeup; without it no look is complete.For a perfect result, you will need a steady hand, some practice, the correct implementats and a knowledge of the correcting techniques.
What You Would Need?
A narrow, flat ended brush, a selection of finely sharpened lip pencils, lipgloss and lipstick(either the conventional tube lipstick or the cream type with a sponge-tip applicator.If your lip colour is uneven, then you will need a special lip base or balancer-use a lighter tone on the dark areas and a dark tone on the light areas.These balancers also form a base for lipstick and help to keep the colour of the lipstick pure and clear.
Lip Makeup Application Technique:
1.Outlining With Lip Liner:
Before outlining the lips check that your lips are smooth and grease free.Use a sharp lip liner pencil in a shade close to that of your lipstick colour and with a steady hand, lightly outline the lips.For the upper lip, start at the centre and work out, towards the corner of the mouth.For the lower lip, work from side to side.
2.Priming The Lips With A Lip Balancer:
Fill in the lips with a special base or balancer to even out the skin tones.If your lips are of an even colour, use a face powder as a base.
3.Filling Up With Lipstick:
Using a lip brush, fill in the colour.For the upper lip start at the center and work outwards.On the lower lip work from side to side.Don t pile up too much colour.It is much easier to add more later than to remove any excess.
4.Blotting Off:
Fold a clean tissue and place it between your lips.Press the lips lightly together to remove the excess colour and to help seal the remainder, so that it stays on the lips rather than moving onto every glass you use.
5.Final Lip Gloss Application:
Finally finish with a lip gloss to get a gleaming look.However, women with extra-full lips, should use lip gloss very sparingly.
Shaping Up Your Lips:
Through a knowledge of what you can do to correct lip shape you can truly achieve a perfect finish to your face.Study the shape of your lips, identify the defects, if any, and decide on what you want to achieve and then proceed.
1.Small Mouth With Small Lips:
These are easily corrected by taking the lip liner pencil outside the natural lip line.Work slowly and steadily to form a perfect shape.Fill in with primer and finally with the lipstick.A highlight of frosting on the upper lip would also create an impression of fullness.
2.Large Mouth With Full Lips:
Apply liquid foundation makeup to the entire mouth, then outline with a dark shade of lipstick just inside the natural contours of the mouth.Then aply lipstick of a lighter shade carefully and accurately within this outline.Subdued shades work well for this kind of mouth.Use medium toned lip colours and avoid dark browns, plums, electric brights or pale shimmer shades.
3.Full Upper Lip:
Aply fluid foundation makeup to the upper lip.Outline just inside its natural contour and apply a dark shade of lipstick.Then outline the lower lip just outside its natural contour and emphasize by filling in with a lighter shade of lipstick.
4.Full Lower Lip:
Outline upper lip just outside its natural contour.Apply a light shade of lipstick and in the center add a touch of lip gloss.Apply fluid foundation makeup to the lower lip. Outline just inside its natural contour.Then fill in with a darker shade of lipstick, using a lip brush.
5.Wide Mouth:
Cover the corners of the mouth with foundation makeup or a cover stick.Apply lipstick with a lip brush, stopping a few millimeters before the corners of the mouth are reached.
Patching Up:
If makeup has to be touched up during the day, only powder makeup should be applied, using a brush.Use gentle patting strokes and blot the excess off.
